Timberline_Measurements & Sleeves

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I have received my final measurements for the Timberline Cardigan I’ll be making for Jeff:

Hip Circumference:  32″ (add 2″ ease each side to make this 36″)
Chest/Body Circumference:  41″
Body Length to Armhole:  19.5″
Armhole Depth:  11″
Sleeve Cuff:  9″
Sleeve Upper Arm:  14″
Sleeve Length from Wrist to Armhole:  21.5″
Total Sleeve Length from Wrist to Shoulder: 30.5″

I’m starting by knitting the sleeves, this way I can double check my gauge, and ease myself into working this thing flat and in pieces, instead of in the round.

According to the schematic, the current wrist circumference is 11 1/4″ which is a lot wider around than I was hoping for, so I am going to have to recalculate the sleeve cast on.  The pattern as is has the sleeve broken out into the following sections over some 60 stitches:
– Reverse St St
– Braid Cable (2x)
– Center Cable
– Braid Cable (2x)
– Reverse St St

To allow for a more narrow wrist, I am reducing the number of stitches worked in reverse stockinette stitch.

Luckily, my upper arm measurement is spot on to the pattern, so I’ll need to increase from 66 stitches to 102 stitches – 18 stitches to be increased on each side of the sleeve over 19″ (21.5″ sleeve length – 2.5″ cuff length) or effectively, every 8 rows.

And then I can proceed with the sleeve cap shaping as called for in the instructions.

I’m going to have to do this same process again for the back and front cast ons, and I’ll explain that process too if you all are interested?

 

Tempted Tuesday_Head Case

I am so excited to report that we have had our first chilly day in so cal, and now I can’t stop having visions of all the cozy knits I will be making and wearing this season.  But since the next 2 months are going to be swallowed up knitting this, I think small, quick, and portable projects will be just what I need to satisfy my own cravings.

In honor of smaller projects, I’m going to start a series of Tempted Tuesday’s dedicated to them!  First up, hats of all kinds!

Bray, Rustling Leaves, Scrollwork, and Magnolia are all very appealing to me!  And what better way to bust through some of that stash?

Footpath

And I have already started a small design of my own, for which I am using a skein of Brooklyn Tweed Shelter (in Camper) that I have had sitting in my stash for a very long time.  It’s my first time using this yarn, and I’m beginning to realize why it has such an appeal for knitters.  It’s got a nice rustic look to the yarn with the gentle flecks of tweed, but still manages to have a great stitch definition.  The 100% american wool is softer that I had expected, and it feels a lot nicer while being knit than just in the skein. While it’s not soft in the sense that it doesn’t feel like alpaca, it is still something I’m going to be very happy to wear on my head, and perhaps later, around my neck.

Brooklyn Tweed Shelter Long John

Now that I’ve gotten to play with this skein, I feel much better about my purchase of 9 skeins of Long Johns, out of which I one day hope to knit Amanda!  I’ve been starting at all the WIP’s taking part in the Fringe and Friends KAL (check out the instagram here).

Blooming

This weekend I made quite a bit of progress on my English Roses pullover.  I managed to finish both the front and the back, get them blocked, seamed them, and finished the neckband.  I finished one sleeve, and now I have one sleeve to go, and am hoping that they are both blocking tonight!

Coming up this week:

Tubular cast on for Timberline, Manly take 2, and Man Cowl with twisted stitches.

Timberline_Math for a Fitted Garment

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As you may have already read, my friend Katie has asked that I knit this insanely intricately cabled cardigan for her boyfriend Jeff (by Christmas, fingers crossed), and I want to make it as perfect as possible so that he will wear it and love it, and love her for thinking of it.

We’ve gotten all the fun things out of the way.  We picked the patter, Timberline, and we picked the yarn, Shepherd Worsted from Stonehedge Fiber Mill, in a soft medium grey, Granite.

So now for the complicated part – fitting Jeff.  I asked Katie to send me a list of Jeff’s measurements to ensure a perfectly fitted sweater.  But, Jeff is one of those men that is lucky enough to have a narrow waist and a very broad back.  If I knit the waist at the same size as the back, he will be left with a cardigan that is fairly loose – not his style at all.  To address this, I am making two mods right off the bat:

1.  I am not knitting this in one piece to the armhole, for several reasons.  For one, I have always been a member of “Team Seam” as Karen so accurately described it.  I love the structure that a side seam provides, it makes your knitting that much more portable, and it breaks it down into manageable pieces, especially when there are so many charts to deal with.

Not to mention that the side panels worked in reverse stockinette stitch make it easy to work it in pieces and incorporate waist increases (explained next!)

2.  I will be casting on fewer stitches than called for to get the smaller waist measurement, and then slowly increasing at the side to get the correct number of stitches for the chest/back when I reach the armhole shaping.

So, how am I going to do this?  Well, I started by taking a screenshot of the schematic for the cardigan, and I’ve drawn arrows and added in a few needed measurements:

Timberline Fitted Schematic

Jeff has a 30″ waist, so I’m adding 4″ of ease to that and aiming for a 34″ cast on.  That means 17″ for the back cast on and 8.5″ for each front cast on (17+8.5+8.5=34).

Now that I have made the waist smaller, I will have to calculate the rate at which I will need to increase at the sides in order to reach the desired width before the armhole shaping.

22″ – 17″ = 5″ difference/2 = 2.5″ to be increased each side.  The gauge given in the pattern instructions for the reverse stockinette stitch section is 20 sts/4″ (or 5 sts/1″) which tells me that I will need to increase 5 sts * 2.5″ = 12.5 stitches added to each side, rounded up to 13 each side.

If I need to add 13 stitches to each side over the course of 14″ of the body length (after the ribbed hem) – giving me 1 stitch to add on each side every, what I am rounding to, 1″.  The pattern row gauge is approximately 8 rows /1″, meaning that I will increase 1 stitch on each side every 8 rows worked.

Voila! Now I just need to receive the yarn in the mail…